In case anyone stumbles across this and remembers my post on the original a-body.net forum about my ABS and red brake dash light being on even though there was nothing wrong with the brake system, I wanted to give an update.
It turns out one of the fusible link wires that attach to the battery's positive terminal was broken. (I think there are three of them). I connected the broken wire to the battery and *bam* both lights on the dash went off.
It looks like it was just a random electrical issue. I forget the username but I think the user Keith said that it might be one of those wires.. well, he was right.
My car floated around sitting for a year due to not being able to pass inspection until I decided to go back and tinker with that broken wire.
So anyway. Thanks for the info! Hopefully this might help someone in the future.
Keith is a great fella to have remotely diagnose issues! Glad you got it resolved. I have had my abs unplugged for years, the bulb finally burned out. Yay!
(06-22-2024, 08:26 AM)Doc Salvage Wrote: [ -> ]Keith is a great fella to have remotely diagnose issues! Glad you got it resolved. I have had my abs unplugged for years, the bulb finally burned out. Yay!
I need to fix my ABS, well, not the ABS specifically. My issue is the actual hydraulic unit in the all-in-one Teves unit. The ABS part functions fine, but the pedal goes to the floor the actual brake light comes on and off. I'm trying to rebuild or find a replacement hydro section of that teves unit.
Hey hey thanks Doc . The old abs systems aren't hard to replace and rebuild it's more or less finding the parts to do so . The actual piston valves tend to wear and the o rings give out hence loss of pressure . If it's actually the unit itself not the brake booster . A vacuum leak from the engine as well can lead up to issues or leaking brake wheel cylinders . In key on function before the car starts the pump primes the system . A test u can do is take the booster hose off the intake and cap the intake Inlet off so u can run the car . See if you have manual brakes . Also in the 96 like my 95 there is a white relay u can unhook from the passenger firewall to disable the abs . I have done so much with the same unit and being 275 k mines been good but electrical grounds and bad bulbs . What I would do is find another 96 and grab a spare incase parts like the two valves inside leaking causing the loss of pressure . Usually you would get leaks from the snap ring on top with the cap on each . So I would make sure u have manual brakes first would rule out some major leaks like mushing pedal or traveling to the floor ( brake booster does that to hence by passing the vacuum to see if you have hard pedal and brakes at idle . If the diapham is shot the pedal would drop . So rule out the easy stuff but if grab a used 96 from a junk yard 99% chance u will have slow mileage good one and be done but while your there replace the booster . If you never taken one off the car have a extra hand ucc C will see the sheer bulk and weight
(08-03-2024, 11:50 PM)Keith1976 Wrote: [ -> ]Hey hey thanks Doc . The old abs systems aren't hard to replace and rebuild it's more or less finding the parts to do so . The actual piston valves tend to wear and the o rings give out hence loss of pressure . If it's actually the unit itself not the brake booster . A vacuum leak from the engine as well can lead up to issues or leaking brake wheel cylinders . In key on function before the car starts the pump primes the system . A test u can do is take the booster hose off the intake and cap the intake Inlet off so u can run the car . See if you have manual brakes . Also in the 96 like my 95 there is a white relay u can unhook from the passenger firewall to disable the abs . I have done so much with the same unit and being 275 k mines been good but electrical grounds and bad bulbs . What I would do is find another 96 and grab a spare incase parts like the two valves inside leaking causing the loss of pressure . Usually you would get leaks from the snap ring on top with the cap on each . So I would make sure u have manual brakes first would rule out some major leaks like mushing pedal or traveling to the floor ( brake booster does that to hence by passing the vacuum to see if you have hard pedal and brakes at idle . If the diapham is shot the pedal would drop . So rule out the easy stuff but if grab a used 96 from a junk yard 99% chance u will have slow mileage good one and be done but while your there replace the booster . If you never taken one off the car have a extra hand ucc C will see the sheer bulk and weight
oops late reply here, thank ya man. I hit the Birmingham pull a part the other day...two count em two A-bodies...both Centurys. One had the 3300 in it. Fewer and fewer showing up.
