https://a-body.org/ Fri, 05 Jun 2026 18:31:26 +0000 MyBB https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=18 Tue, 26 May 2026 23:01:22 -0400 Mur1234]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=18 I've heard some horror stories of the 2.8/3.1 crank sensor breaking off in the block. I may have to replace mine, is there anything I could coat the sensor with to prevent that from happening? I'd think oil or grease would bake the plastic sensor housing. Maybe anti seize? Maybe on a yearly basis just pull it out so it doesn't settle over many years and heat cycles?]]> I've heard some horror stories of the 2.8/3.1 crank sensor breaking off in the block. I may have to replace mine, is there anything I could coat the sensor with to prevent that from happening? I'd think oil or grease would bake the plastic sensor housing. Maybe anti seize? Maybe on a yearly basis just pull it out so it doesn't settle over many years and heat cycles?]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=16 Thu, 05 Feb 2026 13:28:52 -0500 Mur1234]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=16 I have an '87 Ciera 2.8 MPFI. I might attempt to replace the crank balancer. Does anyone know the crank bolt size? Or a part number from GM, Dorman, etc. I googled it and apparently there's a common bolt for sale for the Chevy 305, 350 that fits the 2.8/3.1 multi port. 

7/16" - 20 pitch.
2 1/2" length. 
5/8" hex head. 
Grade 8 threads. 
Can anyone confirm this?
I'd just match the bolt when I take it out. I'm a bit intimidated with removing balancer lol. I'd just like to find bolt before I even start. 

Thanks ]]> I have an '87 Ciera 2.8 MPFI. I might attempt to replace the crank balancer. Does anyone know the crank bolt size? Or a part number from GM, Dorman, etc. I googled it and apparently there's a common bolt for sale for the Chevy 305, 350 that fits the 2.8/3.1 multi port. 

7/16" - 20 pitch.
2 1/2" length. 
5/8" hex head. 
Grade 8 threads. 
Can anyone confirm this?
I'd just match the bolt when I take it out. I'm a bit intimidated with removing balancer lol. I'd just like to find bolt before I even start. 

Thanks ]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=12 Mon, 16 Dec 2024 20:37:50 -0500 CorvairGeek]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=12

  Advance Sale Edited.jpg (Size: 140.43 KB / Downloads: 494)
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  Advance Sale Edited.jpg (Size: 140.43 KB / Downloads: 494)
  Sale.jpg (Size: 368.5 KB / Downloads: 393) ]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=11 Sun, 15 Dec 2024 09:42:18 -0500 73blazer]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=11
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1985-o...ety-eight/]]>
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1985-o...ety-eight/]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=10 Fri, 08 Nov 2024 12:03:12 -0500 73blazer]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=10



  6000AWDDesignNewsOct1988P1.JPG (Size: 193.82 KB / Downloads: 385)

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  6000AWDDesignNewsOct1988P3.JPG (Size: 277.45 KB / Downloads: 450)

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And here's a PDF of the whole article 

  6000AWD_DesignNewsOct1988.pdf (Size: 1.07 MB / Downloads: 491) ]]>



  6000AWDDesignNewsOct1988P1.JPG (Size: 193.82 KB / Downloads: 385)

  6000AWDDesignNewsOct1988P2.JPG (Size: 255.48 KB / Downloads: 393)

  6000AWDDesignNewsOct1988P3.JPG (Size: 277.45 KB / Downloads: 450)

  6000AWDDesignNewsOct1988P4.JPG (Size: 237.17 KB / Downloads: 358)

And here's a PDF of the whole article 

  6000AWD_DesignNewsOct1988.pdf (Size: 1.07 MB / Downloads: 491) ]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=9 Wed, 21 Aug 2024 16:17:33 -0400 Doc Salvage]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=9
Running fine,  but since I did the LIM replace, she has been rough idling.  Will try to idle but then will finally sputter out.

Just put new WVE ignition module, and new NGK coils on, as well as a new WVE AIC.  

I'm thinking vacuum leak.      One unknown I am dealing with is the hose running from under the throttle body to the back valve cover opening.
Can I plug  this thing off?  I guess I need to get the wd40 out and start spraying around. 

Any thoughts on this issue?  Thanks in advance!

P.S. I'm off facebook, maybe for good...thing was taking over my brain   I am running a burner account so I can browse marketplace.

  SDC10969.JPG (Size: 1.55 MB / Downloads: 472) ]]>
Running fine,  but since I did the LIM replace, she has been rough idling.  Will try to idle but then will finally sputter out.

Just put new WVE ignition module, and new NGK coils on, as well as a new WVE AIC.  

I'm thinking vacuum leak.      One unknown I am dealing with is the hose running from under the throttle body to the back valve cover opening.
Can I plug  this thing off?  I guess I need to get the wd40 out and start spraying around. 

Any thoughts on this issue?  Thanks in advance!

P.S. I'm off facebook, maybe for good...thing was taking over my brain   I am running a burner account so I can browse marketplace.

  SDC10969.JPG (Size: 1.55 MB / Downloads: 472) ]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=8 Fri, 05 Jul 2024 20:57:28 -0400 73blazer]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=8 https://www.fierostore.com/

They are the same as the 1988 Fiero, with the note that the Fiero reverses the right and left from the 6000 AWD. GM Part#'s 3487476 3487477 or A1-Cardone 18-4309 18-4310 do not seem to be available anywhere. I had a bleeder screw break off and then the easy-out broke off and I could not drill out the high strength easy out material. I was able to weld onto it after a day break to get it out but I was sweating for a bit and went looking for new ones just in case.]]> https://www.fierostore.com/

They are the same as the 1988 Fiero, with the note that the Fiero reverses the right and left from the 6000 AWD. GM Part#'s 3487476 3487477 or A1-Cardone 18-4309 18-4310 do not seem to be available anywhere. I had a bleeder screw break off and then the easy-out broke off and I could not drill out the high strength easy out material. I was able to weld onto it after a day break to get it out but I was sweating for a bit and went looking for new ones just in case.]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=7 Wed, 26 Jun 2024 09:13:26 -0400 MSPLS]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=7
The first time a shop 'repaired' it, they said they removed a ground strap somewhere and it worked. Pretty hack. I found that resulted in the rear defroster turning on when hitting the brake pedal. 

Eventually it stopped working again, possibly when I replaced one of the rear lift struts that hold open the trunk. 
Another shop then fixed it by running a wire along that driver-side trunk prop-rod. Not sure where they tied into. It worked for a while, but again has stopped functioning.

I'm hoping someone here might have a high quality wiring diagram to share, so that I can DIY it and fix all the hackwork that has been done back there. 
I have these ones that I've attached, but they are so pixelated that I can't quite use them.

  buick center high mount light diagram 2.png (Size: 32.26 KB / Downloads: 451)

  buick center high mount light diagram.png (Size: 25.6 KB / Downloads: 400) ]]>
The first time a shop 'repaired' it, they said they removed a ground strap somewhere and it worked. Pretty hack. I found that resulted in the rear defroster turning on when hitting the brake pedal. 

Eventually it stopped working again, possibly when I replaced one of the rear lift struts that hold open the trunk. 
Another shop then fixed it by running a wire along that driver-side trunk prop-rod. Not sure where they tied into. It worked for a while, but again has stopped functioning.

I'm hoping someone here might have a high quality wiring diagram to share, so that I can DIY it and fix all the hackwork that has been done back there. 
I have these ones that I've attached, but they are so pixelated that I can't quite use them.

  buick center high mount light diagram 2.png (Size: 32.26 KB / Downloads: 451)

  buick center high mount light diagram.png (Size: 25.6 KB / Downloads: 400) ]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=6 Thu, 20 Jun 2024 02:46:35 -0400 slacker]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=6
It turns out one of the fusible link wires that attach to the battery's positive terminal was broken. (I think there are three of them). I connected the broken wire to the battery and *bam* both lights on the dash went off.

It looks like it was just a random electrical issue. I forget the username but I think the user Keith said that it might be one of those wires.. well, he was right.

My car floated around sitting for a year due to not being able to pass inspection until I decided to go back and tinker with that broken wire.

So anyway. Thanks for the info! Hopefully this might help someone in the future.]]>
It turns out one of the fusible link wires that attach to the battery's positive terminal was broken. (I think there are three of them). I connected the broken wire to the battery and *bam* both lights on the dash went off.

It looks like it was just a random electrical issue. I forget the username but I think the user Keith said that it might be one of those wires.. well, he was right.

My car floated around sitting for a year due to not being able to pass inspection until I decided to go back and tinker with that broken wire.

So anyway. Thanks for the info! Hopefully this might help someone in the future.]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=5 Tue, 21 May 2024 21:20:01 -0400 73blazer]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=5

  1a7f953312b3c4508cf6ee80df4a90a6@2x.jpg (Size: 49.08 KB / Downloads: 463) ]]>

  1a7f953312b3c4508cf6ee80df4a90a6@2x.jpg (Size: 49.08 KB / Downloads: 463) ]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=4 Tue, 21 May 2024 09:59:50 -0400 73blazer]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=4 The OEM P/N is 10112685 , which of course is NLA and not found anywhere.
Cardone used to have a rebuild one, for just over $1k, they still do for some other ones. It was 12-3409 for this car , but is NLA from them anymore. They have a couple other very similar units for the Reatta and a Caddy/Rivera/Toronado, 12-3411 and 12-3415.
The pedals got that same as any other blown master feel to it, I'm sure it's a $2 seal internally.

There is one company that claims to have a rebuilt one for this car. But I'm not sure about them. Invasion products. They have bad reviews as well, so I dunno. Plus I really don't want to spend that amount of $$$. http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/19po60steanl.html

They used these on a few vehicles, GM, Ford & Chrysler, the Ford Thunderbird from the era , their forums seem to have the most info on these units.

Anyone dealt with the Teves Mark II before? If cardone can rebuild it, I should be able to as well. Not sure though.

 This is the 12-3411 for Rivera/Toronado/Eldorado/Seville of late 80's early 90's. Mine looks the same, more or less.

  482__09781.jpg (Size: 133.96 KB / Downloads: 546) ]]> The OEM P/N is 10112685 , which of course is NLA and not found anywhere.
Cardone used to have a rebuild one, for just over $1k, they still do for some other ones. It was 12-3409 for this car , but is NLA from them anymore. They have a couple other very similar units for the Reatta and a Caddy/Rivera/Toronado, 12-3411 and 12-3415.
The pedals got that same as any other blown master feel to it, I'm sure it's a $2 seal internally.

There is one company that claims to have a rebuilt one for this car. But I'm not sure about them. Invasion products. They have bad reviews as well, so I dunno. Plus I really don't want to spend that amount of $$$. http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/19po60steanl.html

They used these on a few vehicles, GM, Ford & Chrysler, the Ford Thunderbird from the era , their forums seem to have the most info on these units.

Anyone dealt with the Teves Mark II before? If cardone can rebuild it, I should be able to as well. Not sure though.

 This is the 12-3411 for Rivera/Toronado/Eldorado/Seville of late 80's early 90's. Mine looks the same, more or less.

  482__09781.jpg (Size: 133.96 KB / Downloads: 546) ]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=2 Tue, 21 May 2024 00:17:33 -0400 73blazer]]> https://a-body.org/showthread.php?tid=2
I bought some 1991 LeSabre air struts. They appear to be the same extended and collapsed length and have the right fitting, and the upper mount is the same, the only thing missing is the lower mount with the toe tie-rod attachment wing on it. I'm gonna see if there's some way I can cut that off the old ones and weld it on to the new one, or make a bracket to get it bolted on. I dunno, welding on a sealed hydraulic cylinder is probably not a good idea. Small tacks may be possible. I'm not sure yet.

But I'll update when I get around to it!

 

  CCapture (4).jpg (Size: 821.25 KB / Downloads: 532)

  WP_20240516_12_59_30_Pro22.jpg (Size: 1.07 MB / Downloads: 481) ]]>
I bought some 1991 LeSabre air struts. They appear to be the same extended and collapsed length and have the right fitting, and the upper mount is the same, the only thing missing is the lower mount with the toe tie-rod attachment wing on it. I'm gonna see if there's some way I can cut that off the old ones and weld it on to the new one, or make a bracket to get it bolted on. I dunno, welding on a sealed hydraulic cylinder is probably not a good idea. Small tacks may be possible. I'm not sure yet.

But I'll update when I get around to it!

 

  CCapture (4).jpg (Size: 821.25 KB / Downloads: 532)

  WP_20240516_12_59_30_Pro22.jpg (Size: 1.07 MB / Downloads: 481) ]]>