I seen this on the old board but only one and half pages of it were posted. I've had a few search alerts for years waiting to see an Oct 1988 edition appear somewhere so I could see the whole article. At one point I called the media company that bought them out to see if reprints were possible, they were, but min order is 100 copies and would have cost a few grand. But, as luck would have it, an Oct 1988 popped up in a lot of several others. So I was finally able to get the whole article. I love some of the wording "they needed an automatic transmission that could handle the 138hp of the 3.1L" 


   
   
   
   

And here's a PDF of the whole article 

  6000AWD_DesignNewsOct1988.pdf (Size: 1.07 MB / Downloads: 7)

Finally got Mihoshi going again.  Been close to a year I think, she has been sitting there.

Running fine,  but since I did the LIM replace, she has been rough idling.  Will try to idle but then will finally sputter out.

Just put new WVE ignition module, and new NGK coils on, as well as a new WVE AIC.  

I'm thinking vacuum leak.      One unknown I am dealing with is the hose running from under the throttle body to the back valve cover opening.
Can I plug  this thing off?  I guess I need to get the wd40 out and start spraying around. 

Any thoughts on this issue?  Thanks in advance!

P.S. I'm off facebook, maybe for good...thing was taking over my brain   I am running a burner account so I can browse marketplace.

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If anyone is looking for rear calipers for their AWD 6000, you can find them here: https://www.fierostore.com/

They are the same as the 1988 Fiero, with the note that the Fiero reverses the right and left from the 6000 AWD. GM Part#'s 3487476 3487477 or A1-Cardone 18-4309 18-4310 do not seem to be available anywhere. I had a bleeder screw break off and then the easy-out broke off and I could not drill out the high strength easy out material. I was able to weld onto it after a day break to get it out but I was sweating for a bit and went looking for new ones just in case.

Trying to diagnose the third brake light in my 1996 Buick Century Wagon.

The first time a shop 'repaired' it, they said they removed a ground strap somewhere and it worked. Pretty hack. I found that resulted in the rear defroster turning on when hitting the brake pedal. 

Eventually it stopped working again, possibly when I replaced one of the rear lift struts that hold open the trunk. 
Another shop then fixed it by running a wire along that driver-side trunk prop-rod. Not sure where they tied into. It worked for a while, but again has stopped functioning.

I'm hoping someone here might have a high quality wiring diagram to share, so that I can DIY it and fix all the hackwork that has been done back there. 
I have these ones that I've attached, but they are so pixelated that I can't quite use them.

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In case anyone stumbles across this and remembers my post on the original a-body.net forum about my ABS and red brake dash light being on even though there was nothing wrong with the brake system, I wanted to give an update.

It turns out one of the fusible link wires that attach to the battery's positive terminal was broken. (I think there are three of them). I connected the broken wire to the battery and *bam* both lights on the dash went off.

It looks like it was just a random electrical issue. I forget the username but I think the user Keith said that it might be one of those wires.. well, he was right.

My car floated around sitting for a year due to not being able to pass inspection until I decided to go back and tinker with that broken wire.

So anyway. Thanks for the info! Hopefully this might help someone in the future.

Being it was 82F here or so, I checked that my AC by duster is still working from the R12->HFC154a (duster) conversion several years ago. Yup, still working great!

   

My ABS light came on in my car. The pedal is soft as well and the brake light will occasionally come on during repeated brakes. I ordered the 3000psi tool off fleabay and will check the accumulator pressure, as you can still get the accumulator, but my guess is it's the hydro unit which is all in one.
The OEM P/N is 10112685 , which of course is NLA and not found anywhere.
Cardone used to have a rebuild one, for just over $1k, they still do for some other ones. It was 12-3409 for this car , but is NLA from them anymore. They have a couple other very similar units for the Reatta and a Caddy/Rivera/Toronado, 12-3411 and 12-3415.
The pedals got that same as any other blown master feel to it, I'm sure it's a $2 seal internally.

There is one company that claims to have a rebuilt one for this car. But I'm not sure about them. Invasion products. They have bad reviews as well, so I dunno. Plus I really don't want to spend that amount of $$$. http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/19po60steanl.html

They used these on a few vehicles, GM, Ford & Chrysler, the Ford Thunderbird from the era , their forums seem to have the most info on these units.

Anyone dealt with the Teves Mark II before? If cardone can rebuild it, I should be able to as well. Not sure though.

 This is the 12-3411 for Rivera/Toronado/Eldorado/Seville of late 80's early 90's. Mine looks the same, more or less.
   

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Well, since those of us who own these know those rear air struts become leaky when they get old and they are not really rebuildable or at least that's what they say, and since new ones 22064113, 22064114 are NLA from GM and I've had persistent searches in CL, Facebook Marketplace & fleabay, with nothing in years,  I was gonna try to find some similar ones and modify them.

I bought some 1991 LeSabre air struts. They appear to be the same extended and collapsed length and have the right fitting, and the upper mount is the same, the only thing missing is the lower mount with the toe tie-rod attachment wing on it. I'm gonna see if there's some way I can cut that off the old ones and weld it on to the new one, or make a bracket to get it bolted on. I dunno, welding on a sealed hydraulic cylinder is probably not a good idea. Small tacks may be possible. I'm not sure yet.

But I'll update when I get around to it!

 
   
   

Welcome to A-Body.org! This site is dedicated to those of us crazy people who are enthusiasts of or drive and maintain GM FWD/AWD A-body vehicles.

We used to have A-Body.net, but it suddenly disappeared.
Since I've not seen anything I went ahead and created this forum in hopes we can move our activities, as limited as they were, to here.

 I've no idea who owned the old a-body.net or controlled it, it would be nice if anyone knows that I can try to contact them and see if I can get the forum database and attempt to merge it in here.
Also, the a-body.net domain seems to have been taken over by some unknown entity and currently directs to some betting website, so, that is also not available.

But for now, enjoy!