Advance Auto Parts is closing a lot of stores, as you probably already know. The stores that are closing have everything on sale, but even the other stores seem to be clearing some items out. I got a couple of deals for my '92 3300V6 Century and '96 3100V6 Century Custom. The belt tensioners for the 3300s have become harder to find lately.

       

A fine example of a rare vehicle!

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1985-o...ety-eight/

I seen this on the old board but only one and half pages of it were posted. I've had a few search alerts for years waiting to see an Oct 1988 edition appear somewhere so I could see the whole article. At one point I called the media company that bought them out to see if reprints were possible, they were, but min order is 100 copies and would have cost a few grand. But, as luck would have it, an Oct 1988 popped up in a lot of several others. So I was finally able to get the whole article. I love some of the wording "they needed an automatic transmission that could handle the 138hp of the 3.1L" 


   
   
   
   

And here's a PDF of the whole article 

  6000AWD_DesignNewsOct1988.pdf (Size: 1.07 MB / Downloads: 32)

Finally got Mihoshi going again.  Been close to a year I think, she has been sitting there.

Running fine,  but since I did the LIM replace, she has been rough idling.  Will try to idle but then will finally sputter out.

Just put new WVE ignition module, and new NGK coils on, as well as a new WVE AIC.  

I'm thinking vacuum leak.      One unknown I am dealing with is the hose running from under the throttle body to the back valve cover opening.
Can I plug  this thing off?  I guess I need to get the wd40 out and start spraying around. 

Any thoughts on this issue?  Thanks in advance!

P.S. I'm off facebook, maybe for good...thing was taking over my brain   I am running a burner account so I can browse marketplace.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

If anyone is looking for rear calipers for their AWD 6000, you can find them here: https://www.fierostore.com/

They are the same as the 1988 Fiero, with the note that the Fiero reverses the right and left from the 6000 AWD. GM Part#'s 3487476 3487477 or A1-Cardone 18-4309 18-4310 do not seem to be available anywhere. I had a bleeder screw break off and then the easy-out broke off and I could not drill out the high strength easy out material. I was able to weld onto it after a day break to get it out but I was sweating for a bit and went looking for new ones just in case.

Trying to diagnose the third brake light in my 1996 Buick Century Wagon.

The first time a shop 'repaired' it, they said they removed a ground strap somewhere and it worked. Pretty hack. I found that resulted in the rear defroster turning on when hitting the brake pedal. 

Eventually it stopped working again, possibly when I replaced one of the rear lift struts that hold open the trunk. 
Another shop then fixed it by running a wire along that driver-side trunk prop-rod. Not sure where they tied into. It worked for a while, but again has stopped functioning.

I'm hoping someone here might have a high quality wiring diagram to share, so that I can DIY it and fix all the hackwork that has been done back there. 
I have these ones that I've attached, but they are so pixelated that I can't quite use them.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
       

In case anyone stumbles across this and remembers my post on the original a-body.net forum about my ABS and red brake dash light being on even though there was nothing wrong with the brake system, I wanted to give an update.

It turns out one of the fusible link wires that attach to the battery's positive terminal was broken. (I think there are three of them). I connected the broken wire to the battery and *bam* both lights on the dash went off.

It looks like it was just a random electrical issue. I forget the username but I think the user Keith said that it might be one of those wires.. well, he was right.

My car floated around sitting for a year due to not being able to pass inspection until I decided to go back and tinker with that broken wire.

So anyway. Thanks for the info! Hopefully this might help someone in the future.

Being it was 82F here or so, I checked that my AC by duster is still working from the R12->HFC154a (duster) conversion several years ago. Yup, still working great!

   

My ABS light came on in my car. The pedal is soft as well and the brake light will occasionally come on during repeated brakes. I ordered the 3000psi tool off fleabay and will check the accumulator pressure, as you can still get the accumulator, but my guess is it's the hydro unit which is all in one.
The OEM P/N is 10112685 , which of course is NLA and not found anywhere.
Cardone used to have a rebuild one, for just over $1k, they still do for some other ones. It was 12-3409 for this car , but is NLA from them anymore. They have a couple other very similar units for the Reatta and a Caddy/Rivera/Toronado, 12-3411 and 12-3415.
The pedals got that same as any other blown master feel to it, I'm sure it's a $2 seal internally.

There is one company that claims to have a rebuilt one for this car. But I'm not sure about them. Invasion products. They have bad reviews as well, so I dunno. Plus I really don't want to spend that amount of $$$. http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/19po60steanl.html

They used these on a few vehicles, GM, Ford & Chrysler, the Ford Thunderbird from the era , their forums seem to have the most info on these units.

Anyone dealt with the Teves Mark II before? If cardone can rebuild it, I should be able to as well. Not sure though.

 This is the 12-3411 for Rivera/Toronado/Eldorado/Seville of late 80's early 90's. Mine looks the same, more or less.
   

As with any community, rules and guidelines are important to keep the community running smoothly. Please keep in mind our rules whenever posting to keep our community pleasant for members and guests alike.

Members who continually breach these rules will find themselves limited or removed from the community, regardless of the other contributions they have made.

No personal attacks. If you break this rule you risk being banned from a-body.org. Final judgement of whether or not something is a personal attack will be left to a-body.org staff.

While respectful discussions about race, religion, and sexual orientation are acceptable, insulting someone (or their project) based off those topics or using terms associated with those as an insult is viewed as a personal attack and enforced as such.

No advocating violence or illegal activities.

No intentionally posting something to offend or get under someone’s skin, especially if you tag them or it's quoted. (trolling)

No F bombs in memes or pictures. If use of profanity gets carried away in a post, you may be contacted by a moderator.

Questioning a Moderation Decision Publicly: If you have a disagreement with a moderator (If your post gets deleted, if you get a warning, etc.), DO NOT post your complaint publicly on the forums. If you would like to raise a complaint regarding a moderator's actions, start a private conversation or email the moderator. The contents of this PM do not need to be shared in the open forum. If the moderator's response is unsatisfactory, please contact the admin.

Basically, use a little common sense before typing out a reply that you know might get under someone's skin. Some topics bring out the worst in some of us- if you don't think you can discuss any given topic in a civilized manner, please bow out of the discussion. If you choose to ignore the above guidelines, your post may be deleted, locked and/or forwarded to the Admin section for further review.

Anyone wishing to publicly solicit funds for ANY cause needs to get a hold of the admin  and get the official okay before proceeding.  If you are selling vehicles or parts, no external links, please use our Classified-section.

We take all complaints seriously, but posting your dissatisfaction publicly may result in a rule violation.