I removed all the brake lines on my STE while the ABS master was out, alot easier to get at the myriad of lines underneath it. Some of them were looking pretty rusty.
All the line nuts actually came loose with this tool:
![[Image: VIM_RFW_100.jpg]](https://snyderworld.org/misc/VIM_RFW_100.jpg)
I can say these things actually work. They are toothed inside and grab tighter the more you lean into it. I should have had these decades ago. I've fought so many rust brake and bleeder lines. These just work. In some cases it will start the bend the bracket the line is attached to so you need to brace the bracket somehow, but these really work to get rusty line nuts off.
Now, even though I sprayed these for a couple days you can still have the line to nut siezed up so you get the nut free, but it wants to twist the line. In most cases I was able to free the nut from the line too but two of them twisted off.
What a myriad of lines with this ABS system. Wow. There's a special prop valve with no elec. connector because the normal "brake" light connector connects directly to the master. The prop valve is pretty weird. It has three ports plus a bleeder. The front port connects directly to the front of the master (not the ABS valve block on the side of the master). The rear port connects to the middle of the ABS valve block and is of bigger size. The rear port connects to a three way block which feeds right and left rear brakes. The other two lines off the ABS valve block connect to the RF and LF.
They obviously put the lines in before the drivetrain as getting the left rear and left front lines which crossover above the rear D-shaft and exhaust is a royal pita. The Rear line I was able to get out in once piece. The Left front has just way to many bends on both sides to squirrel it through, I had to cut it. I cut it on the drivers side kinda middle-ish and on the new line-set I'll put a union there, you can access that with the master out to fit that union then.
I'll take all these lines to Inline Tube which is about an hour and half away from me. They will re-make them all in stainless completely with brackets, metal winding protector, correct fittings and bends. Got many sets of lines from them before. Always a good job, been buying stuff from them since 2003. Criminal GM used plain unprotected unpainted steel lines up until about 2014. Criminal!!
![[Image: STE_AWD_BrakeLines1.jpg]](https://snyderworld.org/misc/STE_AWD_BrakeLines1.jpg)
![[Image: STE_AWD_BrakeLines2.jpg]](https://snyderworld.org/misc/STE_AWD_BrakeLines2.jpg)
![[Image: STE_AWD_TevesBrakeConnections.jpg]](https://snyderworld.org/misc/STE_AWD_TevesBrakeConnections.jpg)
Jobs turning into more than I bargained for!
All the line nuts actually came loose with this tool:
I can say these things actually work. They are toothed inside and grab tighter the more you lean into it. I should have had these decades ago. I've fought so many rust brake and bleeder lines. These just work. In some cases it will start the bend the bracket the line is attached to so you need to brace the bracket somehow, but these really work to get rusty line nuts off.
Now, even though I sprayed these for a couple days you can still have the line to nut siezed up so you get the nut free, but it wants to twist the line. In most cases I was able to free the nut from the line too but two of them twisted off.
What a myriad of lines with this ABS system. Wow. There's a special prop valve with no elec. connector because the normal "brake" light connector connects directly to the master. The prop valve is pretty weird. It has three ports plus a bleeder. The front port connects directly to the front of the master (not the ABS valve block on the side of the master). The rear port connects to the middle of the ABS valve block and is of bigger size. The rear port connects to a three way block which feeds right and left rear brakes. The other two lines off the ABS valve block connect to the RF and LF.
They obviously put the lines in before the drivetrain as getting the left rear and left front lines which crossover above the rear D-shaft and exhaust is a royal pita. The Rear line I was able to get out in once piece. The Left front has just way to many bends on both sides to squirrel it through, I had to cut it. I cut it on the drivers side kinda middle-ish and on the new line-set I'll put a union there, you can access that with the master out to fit that union then.
I'll take all these lines to Inline Tube which is about an hour and half away from me. They will re-make them all in stainless completely with brackets, metal winding protector, correct fittings and bends. Got many sets of lines from them before. Always a good job, been buying stuff from them since 2003. Criminal GM used plain unprotected unpainted steel lines up until about 2014. Criminal!!
Jobs turning into more than I bargained for!